Fes

After a long silence, I finally have the chance to sit down and write some thoughts about the different places we had the occasion to visit during this merry month of May.
Fes has to be one of the world’s most unique places to visit. The first glimpse of the Medina is a sight to take one’s breath away. It is the most ancient of Morocco’s imperial capitals and one of the most complete medieval cities of the Arabic world. Little wonder that it was for centuries the country’s dominant city for political and religious life, trade and culture. During the medieval times, it was one of the most advanced centers of mathematics, philosophy and medicine.
The city is now divided into two—the Medina, which is the old city and the Nouvelle Ville which was built by the French. It is however the old city which provides most of the charm and allure. It is a vast warren of streets that snake and branch off to little hidden corners and cul-de-sacs. It is lined with shops selling all manner and type of produce and there is such a cacophony of sounds and smells that one is easily transported back to the medieval times. Here in the souk, it seems to me that commerce here is conducted in a way that has not changed much since its beginning, complete with donkeys loaded with panniers that you meet head on while you traverse the tight winding passages. The calm and dimly lit archways of the mosques of the old city provide an almost welcome relief to all the hustle and bustle going on.

One other thing that hasn’t changed since the beginning is the fabled tanneries of Fes. The biggest tanneries are those of Chouwara. In order to view the tanneries, we were taken up a set of winding stairs and warned to pick up a sprig of mint leaves. The reason for the mint leaves became apparent as soon as we stepped off the terraced roof to view the tanneries. The stench hit us with an almost physical force and got past the mint leaves that we frantically clutched to our nose. Despite the smell, it is fascinating to watch the multitude of skins drying in the sun or soaking in their traditional bath of pigeon urine (yes, you read that right, pigeon urine works as a natural ammonia) and vegetable dye. The process has changed very little since the 16th century when Fes became the preeminent leader of leather production.
Once you’ve exhausted yourself wandering around the souk and have had your fill of all the leather products being sold, it is pleasant to sit in a café, preferably with a view of the Medina drinking a cup of the wonderfully ubiquitous mint tea. What better way than that to end a visit to Fes?